Resistance when the Tyrant is in Power: Florence’s Vasari Corridor

Let’s talk about resistance after a conqueror takes power. Specifically let’s talk about this bendy yellow building, and what it shows us about the moment the Florentine Republic finally fell to its kleptocratic/proto-capitalist banking-fortune Medici conquerors.

(Originally a Bluesky thread, part of my countdown to the release of Inventing the Renaissance)

Photograph of a building in Florence. A tall thin stone section rises up, from street level several stories. About the level of the second story, a yellow section sticks out from the outside of it, awkwardly wrapping around the outside of the stone part, supported by elegant sticky - outy triangular struts. The yellow section has several small circular windows, much too small for a human to climb through, barely large enough for a chubby cat.

In a post last week, I talked about how Renaissance towns used to be full of tall stone towers, built by rich families as mini-fortresses, & Florence got sick of people hiding in their fireproof towers while setting fire to rivals’ houses & letting things burn, so they made everyone knock the tops off.

Photo of a model of Bologna, with so many earthy pink tall skinny towers sticking up from every block of the terra-cotta-roofed town that it looks like plant seeds starting to come up in spring. Around the edge you can see the city's moat and battlemented walls, looking tiny compared to the towers which rise to six or seven times the height of the three-story buildings around them.

The Lost Towers of the Guelph-Ghibelline Wars

Centuries later, the stubs of former towers were still conspicuous, and owning one was a mark of prestige, that you were rich & powerful *before* the tower ban. Tower nubs symbolized patrimony and stability. With which we can now recognize our yellow thing going around one of these nubs. Why?

A photo of a street in Florence. Many tourists walk along and the buildings are all sho ps and eateries. In the center, conspicuous between buildings of yellow or beige stucco, is one building made of crude - looking yellowish stone, very rough and undecorated, with few windows and all small compared to its neighbors. A couple doors down, a sec ond conspicuous stone section like this sticks up, also strangely blank and rough amid its yellow neighbors. Both stop about half a story above the roofs of the three - story buildings on either side of them.
The stone building at center above is one of the distinctive rough stone tower nubs, originally much, much taller.
Image from further away pointing out how the yellow architectural feature, shown in the first image, wraps around one of these recognizable towers.
Our yellow architectural feature wrapping around another such tower nub.

 

The iconic Vasari Corridor was built by a conqueror who feared his people. This lovely yellow walkway over the bridge connected the old seat of government (which he symbolically had to occupy) to the new palace where he lived, keeping him from assassination behind solid walls.

Photograph of Florence's iconic Ponte Vecchio, the Old Bridge. A lower stone section with arches is covered with tiny houses in various shades of golden stucco, with little square widows with green or red shutters. Along the upper portion going across above the roofs of the tiny buildings is a long yellow corridor, matching what we saw wrap around the tower. The picturesque combination is photographed in twilight, with lights shimmering on the deep blue water. In the river below, a totally inappropriate gondola full of tourists is looking up at the bridge (Florence did not have gondolas, only Venice did, this is very silly, but very pretty!)

It was an architectural show of force, as all the families with property in the way were pressured to submit to the new duke’s demand to let him build his walkway over their roofs or even through their homes. It was also a show of fear, perhaps best personified by the fact that

Architectural diagram of the Vasari Corridor. Amid the various buildings of Florence, shown in gray, the fully colored walkway stands out. It starts in the top left at the Palazzo Vecchio, the old battlemented square palace with its tall clock tower. From there the terra cotta roof of the yellow walkway extends straight to the right to the river, then along the river to the bridge, then turns across the bridge and meanders through the buildings on the far side of the river until it reaches the large Pitti P alace complex. You can clearly see how in some sections it goes through what would have been public space, going above streets and sidewalks, but in other areas plows through private homes, and even through the small church of Santa Felicita.

around the same time that Duke Cosimo built this fortified commuter lane to avoid his people, his neighbor Duke Alfonso d’Este of Ferrara used to walk around his city buck naked (with his dick in one hand & a sword in the other) to show off his confidence that no one dared touch a d’Este.

Portrait of young Duke Cosimo I de Medici. He barely has any beard, and looks barely twenty. He wears very elaborately dec orated etched shiny armor, with a helmet in his hands, and stands in front of a velvety drape. He has no insignia of knighthood etc. but looks very warlike, and his armor has brackets for bracing a lance, for jousting.
Duke Cosimo I de Medici

 

Portrait of Duke Alfonso d'Este. He has a grizzled full beard. Wearing a red and black fur - lined brocade overgarment over a red velvet robe, he leans nonchalantly on a cannon, with his other hand on the gold - hilted sword at his b elt. A dignified chain of membership in a prestigious order of knighthood hangs around his neck (Order of Saint Michael, of France).
Duke Alfonso d’Este

The d’Este were a *very* blue blooded old family, stably in power for generations, propped up by Venice, the Holy Roman Emperor, and the papacy who all wanted stability in the duchy that was the buffer zone between their three empires, minimizing direct war.

Ma p of northern Italy. Ferrara is highlighted in yellow, positioned in between the top left section (circled in blue) which is under the dominion of the Holy Roman Emperor, the top right section which is under the ruler of Venice (circled in green), and the bottom section circled in red which is the Papal States. Tuscany is also visible as a gap between these empires to the left, but Ferrara is the skinny choke point, just south of Venice and north of Bologna.

In contrast, the Medici were mere merchant scum, commoner equals of their neighbors who, back when everyone important in Florence had a tower, hadn’t had an impressive one. Bowing before a noble-blooded prince made sense to people at the time, before that family down the street?

Machiavelli said if people are deeply invested in an institution they fight for it, so places used to monarchy (like Milan) if they became republics yield to new conquerors easily (Milan did in 1450) but peoples who truly love their would never stop fighting for their ancient liberty.

Florence did fight the ducal takeover. Cellini’s Perseus statue, the topic of my first thread in this series, commemorated Duke Cosimo crushing of one violent uprising, & his desire to cast the severed heads of his enemies in eternal bronze was a show of force, but also fear.

Left' A bronze statue of naked Perseus, beautifully muscular and youthful, holding aloft the severed head of Medusa from whose neck gore is dribbling in streams. He wears a beautiful classical helmet with wings on it, and holds a curved classical sword. In the background one can see the arched roof of the Renaissance loggia above him. Right: An orange book cover showing the same statue in much the same position, though one can also see Medusa's headless body at Perseus's triumphant feet, her neck streaming gore. The title "Inventing the Renaissance: Myths of a Golden Age" is superimposed over the statue, with the word "the" pierced by the sword.

Cellini’s Perseus & the Violence of Renaissance Art

When Duke Cosimo wanted to build his elevated private commuter tunnel, those heads on pikes were fresh memories. Most neighbors yielded to his architectural conquest, but there in his way was one old tower nub, cramped, unfashionable, cold, but patrimony of the Mannelli family who… were descended from the Roman Manlii family who’d had a consul as early as 480 BC, peers of Cicero and Caesar, who’d already owned the tower a century when Boccaccio’s friend Francesco Mannelli lived in it during the Black Death, 200 years before Duke Cosimo took power.

So when the duke unveiled his plans to blast a hole through it, the Mannelli told the young conqueror to get stuffed. Cosimo knew if he violated this symbol of ancient patrimony, every *other* propertied family would turn on him. The conqueror didn’t dare cross that line.

This wasn’t idealistic resistance; it came from one of the most oligarchic and entrenched of social forces: property rights. But it was resistance, and it worked. Around the tower the corridor went. Every generation thereafter pointed to it as a place the people drew the line, and won.

Image again of the corridor wrapping awkwardly around the tower.Portrait again of Duke Cosimo I.

This is not a story of the kind of resistance that groundswells and overthrows the tyrants. The Medici stayed in power until the family died out, they were never overthrown. But they were *kept in check.* A line the conqueror doesn’t dare cross is a powerful line, that protects much behind it.

Stories of revolution are dramatic and cathartic, but we also need stories like this, of resistance *under tyranny* that drew a line, *reducing harm* even while tyrant stayed. Nor was this the only time Florence drew such a line.

Rewinding a century, the Medici rose to power around 1430 through a combination of cunning, cash & cultural soft power under Cosimo the Elder the great-great-great-grandfather of the Duke Cosimo. Many times in that century Florence drew the line.

Portrait of Cosimo the Elder, wearing very expensive but humble - in - rank merchant's red robes and a merchant's red hat. He sits in a wooden chair. Next to him grows a laurel tree with a ribbon wrapped around it, repr e senting his noble descendants especially Lorenzo il Magnifico, his grandson.
Portrait of the original Cosimo de Medici the elder, dressed in merchant-appropriate red robes, lined with fur which shows they were extremely expensive, but very much not what a duke would wear.

 

Portrait of Duke Cosimo I again , looking much more like a nobleman in his shiny armor compared with his humble mercantile great, great, great - grandfather.
Portrait of Duke Cosimo I, wearing very warlike and splendid armor, looking very ducal exactly as his merchant-class descendants didn’t dare look in portraits. (Despite Cosimo’s grandsons in fact owning armor and jousting, but what you choose to look like in a *portrait* is different.

They drew it violently with uprisings or assassination attempts in 1433, 1466, 1478, 1494, 1430, 1437 etc., and more quietly many times between through moments of resistance like the Mannelli telling the conqueror he and his corridor to (literally) get bent (around their tower).

The tale of resistance told by the Mannelli Tower isn’t one of revolution, it’s one of slowing down the shifting baseline. The baseline did keep shifting, less liberty for all and more power for the conquerors, but it shifted * slowly*, and many lives and rights sheltered behind that line. If we define victory as preserving the republic, there’s no happy ending, the Medici won. But if their conquest started in 1430 and they still didn’t dare pierce a symbolic tower 130 years later, that is a lot of slowing the baseline compared to what Florence’s conquered neighbors endured. Slowing the baseline shift meant many generations of Medici being careful, respecting core rights, while Alfonso d’Este didn’t just parade around Ferrara buck naked, he had his artists thrown in the dungeon if he thought they weren’t painting fast enough.

Machiavelli said peoples who treasure their liberties can preserve them even through long stretches of tyranny. That it’s peoples like 1450 Milan who yield quickly to the tyrant and don’t try to hold the line who lose their liberty completely. He wasn’t wrong.

We don’t like resistance stories without a cathartic revolution, they don’t feel like blowing up the Death Star. They feel like loss. They’re not. We need to revisit these worst case scenarios to see that, even when resistance didn’t *win* it did *work*. It saved lives & livelihoods.

A detailed image of Perseus's torso as he holds up the severed head. You can see the name of the sculptor "Benvenuto Cellini" written on a strap which goes diagonally across Perseus's naked chest, holding his scabbard - the helmet and scabbard are the only clothes he wears. A pigeon sitting on the sword is humorously positioned just in the right spot to hide the penis.

 

Florence’s republic didn’t fall to the Medici only once, it kicked them out in 1433, in 1494, in 1512, in 1530, it took many conquests. But even when it *was* the worst case, the final fall, resistance kept Florence a place that with noticeably more liberty than its neighbors.

No one in Florence knew which republic was the last republic, not in 1430, 1478, 1494, 1512, or 1530, but they did know *all* resistance held the line and preserved liberties. Partial victory is powerful. We must remember that.

(To learn more “Inventing the Renaissance” comes out in a few weeks!)

 

2 Responses to “Resistance when the Tyrant is in Power: Florence’s Vasari Corridor”

  1. Terry Hickman said:

    Counting the days until my local indie bookstore notifies me this book is waiting for me! Wow, this article is so needed these days. Thank you for all your hard work and insightful analysis!

  2. Was watching a YouTube video called “Dark Gothic MAGA: How Tech Billionaires Plan to Destroy America,” and your “Too Like The Lightning” books may end up being prophetic. Except instead of nations we can opt in and out of based on values, they want each nation to be a company you must own shares in – and if you’re too poor, you can be prison labor or even biofuel. And the instigating moment isn’t a religious war, but billionaires purposefully and strategically eroding nation states so they personally can shore up weath, power and land to last past the upcoming end of late stage capitalism.. I’m keeping an eye on your writing forever from now on, see what else you predict…

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